Ape index = arm span − height. A positive ape index means your arms are longer than your height, giving a reach advantage on longer moves. This is advantageous for climbing because you can reach higher holds without as much body positioning. Many elite climbers have positive ape indexes of +5 to +10cm. Adam Ondra, the first person to climb 9c, has an ape index of approximately +8cm. However, climbers with negative ape indexes compensate with superior technique and hip mobility.
Key points
- Arm span minus height
- Positive = reach advantage
- Elite climbers often +5 to +10cm
- Technique compensates for negative index
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